Big Family Small Tales - Hsinchu Beipu (Han, Hakka and Saisiyat)
A Taiwan Resource Map hand-drawn by Yuyu Yang for Harvest Magazine inaugural issue 1951
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| Lantern made from Luffa Sponges |
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| Hakka Sour Orange Tea |
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| The BEST 'Run Bing' 潤餅 I have ever had!
Jinguangfu 金廣福 host - Jiang descendant showing us around
Why only 'small' tales I am telling here - because big historical tales have been told by two well-written and informative articles for readers to appreciate and digest. I am here 'dressing up' with tidbits and occasional tales from my personal perspectives. Willie Chen Hsinchu Imperial Scholar House and Cheng Ancestral Shrine and Steven Crook Beipu From Violent Frontier to Quaint Backwater Hsinchu Historic Family Feast 
source Willie Chen
Beiguoyuan 北郭園 no longer exists, but on an earlier Hsinchu trip in 2019 hosted by the Chengs we were treated a 'Family Feast' 家宴 in an ancestral dining room named 'beiguoyuan'. Its 'official' and searchable location is called 淨業院 Jinyueyuan.
Cheng host specifically pointed out to me 'Yanjiao' knowing my particular 'culinary history' interest. They come in HAND-MADE parcels of different shape in a hot pot prepared from local ingredients.  
Served with Hsinchu style 'short' rice noodles
Cheng then told me "we are the first family in Taiwan to bring Yanjiao to dining tables." It rings the bell as I had Yang San-lang's son told me "we are the first family in Taiwan to serve buddha-jumps-over-the-wall" (See post here). Both for the reason - they are the only privileged families in Taiwan who could have afforded banquet-style dishes in the comfort of their homes in those times. 淨業院 Jinyueyuan - a hidden gem A Buddhist temple built in 1902 by Hsinchu gentry 鄭如蘭 (Cheng Ru-lan 1835-1911) for his devoted buddhist first wife to practice her religious beliefs. By 1942 the temple has developed into a Zen Sect, lectures preaching 'The Diamond Sutra' had been held on a regular basis by 斌宗法師 (An influential Zen priest born in 1911, Lukang) (By some coincidence, I noticed, Cheng the powerful and influential Hsinchu man who created the institute and the Lukang priest who played a major role in the temple history, died and born the same year 1911)  Current resident Buddhist Priestess is 寬謙法師 (Kuanqian Fashi) - seen in center of the photo. Kuanqian Fashi is one of the daughters of 楊英風 (Yuyu Ying-feng Yang 1926-1997) - a renowned sculptor, architect and environmental designer. The temple is also home to several Yang's sculpture pieces adding modernness to the century-old structure. Yang was a major contributor of Harvest Magazine 豐年雜誌 - the longest running Taiwanese journal on agriculture and related topics first published in 1951. Before our departure, we were given a yellow&black souvenir towel printed with Hsinchu City God 城隍 Blessings (blessing no.1)  A year later, earlier this month, after the opening ceremony of Hsinchu Cheng ancestral offering ritual ceremony on the first Full Moon of the Lunar New Year (Also known The Lantern Festival), the same host treated us a lunch feast - one of the most mesmerizing meals I have had - in a back private room at God City Temple. We were served a variety of signature dishes cooked by the temple vendors ! Each one was delicious and showcasing Hsinchu local ingredients.    Yanjiao 燕餃 is served here in a wonderful bowl of assorted Geng 羹! Geng being one of the oldest dishes of China - dated back some 2000 years ago! No shortage of historians and cultural workers in the room, another history class in situ - , former Hsinchu mayor James Tsai introducing and giving guidance to a publication. 
After Lunch, we moved to the main temple and enjoyed the lantern festival -
One that is made of disposable cups
Hsinchu Food Specials including steamed sponge cakes, moist pancakes and peanut butter. Pancake dough looks like this:
I don't know when Hsinchu became famous for its peanut butter, but if you look around in Taipei bakery, you see 'Hsinchu peanut butter' is a popular recommend.
We were each given a pocket-size red envelope, inside a gold plate printed with City God's blessing (blessing no. 2). Since it was during fear of coronavirus outbreak, we all wish that is City God keeping us safe and well from the pandemic disease.
 
Onto the next destination - Beipu Historic Jiang Family, we passed a couple of old shops -
 丞祖 (Chengzu) pork pepper buns first founded in Wanhua in 1941 under the name 元祖 (Yuanzu). 丞祖 (Chengzu) now managed by 4th generation of Yuanzu is named to identity a younger family enterprise. Shops under both names operate in northern Taiwan area. Jinguanfu 金廣福 and Tianshui Hall 天水堂 Out in a hurry and from awkward positions, I took these photos during the afternoon thinking they are good and quick reminders of the intricate and complex history of the Jiangs 姜 once returned to Taipei from an information-loaded full day trip. (The indigenous people in the first description is the Saisiyat)     Greeted by a couple of tall Money Trees 招財樹 (Malabar chestnut origin Mexico). Didn't recognize it at first as they are usually seen in Taiwan indoor office plants. We were first shown sites opened to the general public - 
金廣福 Jinguangfu
Gold, Canton, Fujian
  
Some female Jiang members. Hakka women didn't bind feet
The second half we were taken to private sectors, visit by special arrangement only.
Tien-Shui Hall 天水堂 (Jiang House) - named after Jiang clan's county hall in Tianshui County (In present day Gansu province China Tianshui city). Our hosts are the 7 and 8th generation of Jiang Shiu Luan 姜秀鑾 who built the hall.
ORIGINAL portraits of Chang Hsiu-luan and first wife
 
Werner, E. T. C. (1922)
The eight jade carving embedded in the bottom of both wooden chairs in the portraits represents Taoist The Eight Immortals.
 
Hakka Tomb Sweeping Day
The Hakka people usually visit ancestral graves right after the end of Lunar Year (the Lantern Festival) before the traditional on April 5 in the Gregorian calendar. Traditionally, they would spread Guazhhi 掛紙 - pieces of long yellow joss paper - on the grave or gravestones giving a parting salutation to the ancestors. The photos are Tianshui Jiang branch tomb sweeping activity two weeks after our visit.
Jiang A-hsin Mansion 姜阿新洋房
A Baroque style, mix of Taiwanese and Western craftsmanship European house the family lost for 50 years has seen its turbulent days since construction started and completed in 1946 and 1949. Through bankruptcy and changing hands, the family finally bought it back in 2012, renovated, restored and vowed to preserve what is now a beautiful and most famous house in Beipu.
Elegant corner - the rest room
'two leaf and a bud' Jiang family tea history on the ceiling
Deng Nan-Guang 鄧南光 (1907 - 1971)
It had not occurred to me Deng's connection with Beipu Jiang until this trip, although I knew he was Hakka from Beipu. A different Jiang branch from Tianshui's, Deng's grandfather Jiang Man-tang 姜滿堂 married the daughter of a wealthy Cantonese Hakka family Deng and the first son (Deng Nan-Guang's father) from this marriage was given the mother's surname Deng.
  
A Japanese selling his family possessions on the street after WWII defeat.
Shuijing (The well) tea house 水井茶堂
In a lane by Jinguanfu, you see a red teapot sign giving direction to the tea house.
Shuijing was the former residence of Hsinchu Girls' High first principal Jiang Re-peng 姜瑞鵬. One side is open for public the tea house, the other side remains private residential of the Jiang.
   
Hakka Tiger Orange Sour Tea 客家酸桔茶
I first saw 'Hakka Orange Tea' in Fujian a few years back around Spring, this time of the year. After visiting a bunch of traditional 'Fujian Hakka Tulou' and seeing these 'black' oranges with an 'open top' - I immediately associate the two! Take a closer look - it even resembles Shakespeare Roundhouse theater, is it not?!
Grabbing an opportunity while the tea house manageress was available, I finally understood what this tea is about. It is a Hakka tradition of not wasting 'Tiger Orange' 虎頭柑 to ferment tea. A type of orange with very thick skin and very sour fruit Taiwanese use as auspicious ornament during Lunar New Year for its large size and color.
The sour tea is one of the Hakka food industry I witnessed both in Fujian and Taiwan, the other is dried persimmon.
The sour fruits removed and put, to individual preference or home recipes, usually tea leaves, licorice, salt, perilla and herbs in the emptied rinds. To complete takes about six months including nine repeated rounds 九蒸九曬of steaming, roasting and sunning. However, the manageress told me, nowadays the roasting and sunning is reduced to 2-3 hours by machine.
To drink - one can put the whole orange in a teapot and pour in hot water, or as I see in the shop for sales, break into 'tea biscuits' for a smaller enjoyment.
 
Hakka Leicha 擂茶 (Pounded Tea) - A modern innovation for tourism
We were given a supreme quality Leicha powder pack from the host. A mildly sweet, warming drink made with green tea, sesame (white and black), soy bean, oat, peanut, pumpkin seeds and sugar.
During the book "A Culinary History of Taipei" research, I inquired with Hakka food scholars the 'iconic' Hakka drink history :" we don't drink it at home, never do. Taiwan's Hakka Leicha culture is a food innovation for tourism." And during the trip, again confirmed by Beipu locals and Historians " We never drink that stuff growing up for sure"
Southeast Asia Hakka Leicha, however, maybe a different story.
Torch Dragon Festival Beipu 正月15 ‘油笐火’夜遊
 
BAMBOO torch - the tradition
On
way to dinner around 6pm, we saw the beginning of a festival 油笐火 most of us have not
heard of. Here is a write-up from Willie Chen:
Torch dragon festival of Beipu hillside fort city
of Hsinchu of Formosa at the first full moon night of the Lunar New Year, a
postwar tradition to reconstruct dragon glory of the past before Japanese
Administration period since 1895. Legend has it that after the Sino-Japan war
in 1895 and handover the Formosa to Japan, several rebellions were seen from this
Han-Chinese settlement against early armed Japanese administration.
The Beipu
village was born with a city plan like a forbidden city in mind of those early
Chinese settlers. The temple is laid at the heart of a village with high rise
mount at the back of the temple- Tse-Tien Temple. A grand street is laid
perpendicular to the front of the temple. This layout of a Chinese city was
believed good and blessed by Fensui.
The 1895 newly arrived Japanese governors
laid a new and modified street plan and drew a new horizontal road to cut the
geo-continuity of the villagers to the hills right behind the ritual center,
Tse-Tien Temple, the chair Fensui of this fort city. The original
geo-continuity is believed the invisible dragon backbone that was the success
of the early settlement of Han-Chinese immigrants to this hill fort. After
Japan lost in WWII and left Taiwan in 1945, the villagers had a mind to
recreate the dragon backbone of the fort city and host the night walk holding
torch event to resemble the re-eminent dragon still crawls at night when the
New Year comes alive
Twelve-course feast at a popular Hakka restaurant (innovative)@客家本色私房料理餐廳
Pepper (black) Duck is the signature dish. Braised Napa Cabbage 白菜滷 is a Taiwanese old-time dish, I didn't look how Hakka's version was different. Every dish was delicious!
Hakka's
proud pig knuckles on bed of dried bamboo shoots
藍鵲書房 Blue Magpie Book
Studio and a Saisiyat Memory to Put Behind
In this cosy, neatly-designed book studio I spotted under 'History' a Saisiyat
photo book published by Council of Indigenous Peoples. Several pages are about
a family in Chingchuan (Wufeng township, Hsinchu County) whom I can relate through
my parents' connection with a Saisiyat woman who came to Taipei in early 1950s,
along with her sister, working as nurse at the hospital my father served. (I
later found out the reason why finding jobs working in hospital seemed
relatively easy for the sisters is because they spoke Japanese. A family
tradition by their father's insist.)
The sister Dai Yu-mei
(戴玉妹),
whom I have met and chatted in 2016, was in the spotlight a year later for her
romance with a 93 years old Mr Sun from Nanking, a personal guard of former
warlord Chang Hsueh-liang 張學良
who was placed under house arrest in Chingchuan. Ms Dai told me she didn't
speak Saisiyat nor Mandarin, only Japanese - a strict family rules by her
policeman father. We played with Chang a lot, swimming in the river, playing
tennis, and we laughed and joked in Japanese. "I have no desire to return
to Chingchuan", when she spoke to me at
her apartment in Taipei "It's all changed, I am not attached to the
place nor the people. I left at 15 and I have not looked back."
(Dai Yu-mei, an
88-year-old Saisiyat, singing and dancing teacher )HERE
(Great to speak to
you after 70 years! (Taipei - Nanking) HERE
It maybe fair to say I
did not really appreciate the relationship between Hakka and Saisiyat until
this trip. Here are a few bits to note:
Xiangtian Lake 向天湖 (Nanzhuang, a town boasts a distinctive
Hakka characters in Miaoli) is associated with a Saisiyat word rarame: meaning
fabric dye. (In a
dictionary given by a Saisiyat teacher, the accompany photo of this description
is 薯榔 dye yam
(pink)). The lake is surrounded by lots of dyes, in the
explain.
Wufeng 五峰 (Hsinchu County) original Saisiyat name
is tatoba' meaning Millettia pachycarpa 魚籐 . A climbing shrub widely used in
traditional practice such as poison fish, agricultural pesticide. The area is surrounded by lots of poison shrubs.
Hakka mochi 'ciba' and Saisiyat 'tinawbon'. I found them very similar in size, shape and style (unfilled)! despite one is served sweet, the other savoury. 
Sticky Rice bridge 糯米橋 and Japanese Children Memorial Stone 五子碑
Jiang host told me a lovely family story about the 'Sticky Rice Bridge' while chatting with him about the two Beipu sites I would like to visit but not possible this time. When was the bridge named 糯米橋 sticky rice (the grain used to make a super-strong mortar for walls and structures) is unknown, but it was called 雙安橋 (shuan-ann-qiao) when it was built meaning "Double safe".
The heartwarming story began in 1851 when a Jiang maiden was to marry into a Liang 梁 family at the opposite village across the river. With intention to bridge good relationship with the future in-laws and well-wishing to the married couple, the bridge was built as part of the bride's dowry and named Shuan-ann "Double safe and sound" eternal blessings to both families and their communities. 
Five Children Memorial Stone 五子之碑 is in a remote village 内豊, not the usual tourist spot. In memory of the five Japanese elementary school children (youngest age 4) killed and dated the first day of The Beipu Indicent in 1907.
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