ANTHROPOLOGY (FOOD) NOTES

PART SIX (31-)

32. Saisiyat Words -  Bon 米 and Ki 旗 - Holo Borrowed? HERE.

31. HOT press pancake (China Anhui and Hungary Budapest) 

Magic of IRON

PART FIVE (26 - 30)

26. Orchid Island Pigs gu'is (Hokkien borrowed word kuí-á 鬼神) HERE.

27. Hakka White-jade-radish Couplet (an example) HERE.

28. Taiwanese 草仔粿 (tsháu-á-kué)
Plains Indigenous 按啦粿 (ah-lê-kué)
Papora (The Kingdom of Middag) Old Name 都都 (tu-tu).

Grass cake/dumpling is typically available around the time of Qingming (Tomb sweeping) Day. Common 'grass' includes mugwort, barley grass, cudweeds and is a tradition in China, Taiwan, Japan and some others. 

Plains indigenous adopted and adapted the tradition and give it a name 按啦粿 ah-lê-kué， ‘ah' in Holo means to PRESS- wrap rice in a chosen leaf and PRESS into shape. Most appropriate name for the shape is Tamale. 

Intriguing is the phonetic proximity of 'kueh tutu' (a steamed rice treat in Singapore) - believed a China or South India origin. And 
'都都 tu-tu' (old name of the steamed rice tamale for The Papora  of The Kingdom of Middag (dissolved in 1732) 

Earliest literature of 草仔粿 (tsháu-á-kué) is 番俗六考（Pingpu customs six studies ), 1722. Where  都都 tu-tu the term for a steamed rice dumpling appears.

文獻最早記載台灣的草仔粿是在清吏黃叔璥著《台海使槎錄》寫《番俗六考》，紀錄了台灣平埔族的習俗。其中「…… 酒飯各二種。飯不拘秫、糯，炊而食之；或將糯米蒸熟，舂為餅餌，名都都。」這段話裡的「都都」就類似今日的草仔粿，為平埔族祭祖時普遍且重要的祭品。

29. Hakka Language Preserves Ancient Chinese

Ancient Chinese language is preserved in Hokkien and Hakka, we know that. I have only seen this here in Jiadong (a major Hakka town Southern Taiwan), not anywhere else, yet.

嘗 an ancient word for autumnal equinox festival is preserved in Hakka culture, meaning "Ancestors worship guild, or Trust Fund" 祭祀公業. 

嘗 today means to taste, to experience. 

Interestingly,  蒸 is used for winter solstice festival in ancient China.  

蒸 today means to steam (for food).
A banquet cooked up after Ancestral offering ceremony is paid by the 'Trust Fund' and is therefore called 吃嘗。

30. Home means with Pigs. 家 Jia

家 Home in Chinese means pigs 豕 under roof,  that's a home. 

Every household has pigs, and It's called 'HOME '.

PART FOUR (22 - 25 )

22. Indigenous note - The Forgotten Oil Millet of Taiwan. HERE. 

23. Goose Fat - Taiwan Hakka and Jews. HERE. 

24. Hapa mi-chie (Siraya unique)

Hapa mi-chie (Siraya unique)

Siraya unique offering to soldiers, fighters – a ritual developed after 1949.
5 essential items – grains, coins, metal nails, mung beans and towel. Towel is for soldiers to wipe sweat.
Information source 吉貝耍部落長老段洪坤老 Kabuasua tribe elder Duan Hung-kun
Photo taken at Academia Sinica.
(Towel is one of the cleansing items commonly offered in Taiwanese family ancestral rituals and ghost festival– often with toothbrush/paste and face-washing bowl , consideration if the offered stay overnight)

25. (Wood 木斛蘭 and Stone 石斛蘭) Dendrobium - Tsou People (Central Southern Taiwan) and Pu'er Yunnan  

I noticed Tsou Holy flower is 木斛蘭(金草蘭 golden)，a type of Dendrobium, the name suggests it grows on wood. Tsou smear pig blood on the Holy flower and attach to 'Kuba' House during traditional ceremony.

I then recall a very interesting and delicious, refreshing, healthful 石斛(蘭)宴 I enjoyed very much, both culinary and cultural, in Pu'er Yunnan (Pu'er being most famous for their tea)!

There, a local specialty of a Dendrobium banquet becomes the regional trademark. The Dendrobium used there suggests it's grown on stones. But the colour of the flower used in this banquet is very similar golden yellow to orange.

EVERY part of it is made into a dish. Most delicious is eggs steamed with the flower part. Tasted great and visually delightful.

This is the photo from the Pu'er 'Stone Dendrobium Banquet' 石斛宴. @Pu'er Yunnan

PART THREE (18 - 21)

18. Why are turkeys called turkeys

(That's a Thanksgiving turkey with cranberry sauce.

Brits eat turkey on Xmas, and cranberry sauce untraditional. )

Were turkeys just named after any random country? It turns out the story of all these names is one of massive multilingal mistaken identity between the turkey and another bird, the guinea fowl.

Dan Jurafsky

(https://languageoffood.blogspot.com/2010/11/turkey.html?m=1&fbclid=IwAR2F-0g0_8aKp_x0zsCbXK0rFRTYbxnIT5jOGdX-_pqY99uNrMYK8m9kx3k)

Gene Anderson: There was some confusion of "India" and "the Indies" (West Indies) in there too.... For the record, maize was at first called "Turkey corn" in Europe, because Turkey adopted it faster than most of Europe did, but Turkey calls it "Egyptian grain" for reasons unclear to me! Possibly transfer name from sorghum, which they really did get from Egypt. Compare the Chinese names for maize and sorghum, both of which are transfer-names from varieties of millet.

From our book - mainly Chapter 3

"yellow Japanese-style preserved daikon" - Most bowls of shredded turkey on rice, and many of braised pork, are topped by a slice of takuan, yellow Japanese-style preserved daikon. 

"There is no customary dish for this occasion, certainly nothing synonymous with the event like turkey is to Thanksgiving and Christmas."

"During Chen’s presidency, a “localized state banquet” policy was launched. Foreign dignitaries were entertained in counties far from Taipei, and the feasts showcased dishes synonymous with those places. In Chiayi, shredded turkey with gravy on white rice made an appearance."

**Turkey production grew more than tenfold between 1945 and 1976 because it was cheaper, pound for pound, than chicken. But by 1995 it had declined to less than a third of its peak, after Taipei was pressured by Washington to accept American imports to restore balance to the US-Taiwan trade relationship. Nowadays, much of the meat used for shredded turkey with gravy on white rice—a dish associated with Chiayi—is imported.**

19. Pie baked stuck to the inside of a tandur

Taiwna's pepper (hujiao) bun (aka Fuzhou bun. pronounced in Holo) 

Gene Anderson: In Sevilla and some other Hispanic places. For that matter, somsalar (samusas, in Uzbek) can be laminated too (as I had in Bokhara, a.k.a. Bukhoro), though they are usually not so and are basically meat pies. They are baked stuck to the inside of a tandur, a fun process to watch. I think the idea of laminated dough is pretty widespread.

Miranda Brown: it's a big thing in China, probably due to Central Asian influence, but under a different guise (just not as thin a dough).

Name origin: Guang Bing (Qi Jiguang Cake) Qi Jiguang 戚繼光 is a historical figure and Chinese folk hero famed for his exploits against Wo (the old name of Japan). Loved and held in great esteem by the people they named small cakes in his honor.

Unique in Taiwan - Stop Drooling ritual (Chapter 3). 

Taiwanese tradition used Guang Bing until recent replacement of cookies.

"European macarons did not catch on until some years into the twenty-first century, with the manager of the Taipei branch of a Parisian pâtisserie reporting that families were buying the confections for shōuxián ceremonies. This ritual involves the relatives (and often their friends) of a four-month-old baby stringing cookies around the baby’s neck, breaking off pieces, and then rubbing them on the youngster’s lips in the belief that the infant will then stop drooling. Macarons are thought to be ideal for this purpose because they come in different colors, making for appealing photos of the event ."

20. Indigenous 'Weaving and Fabric' (loom type and ramie cultivation)

 HERE. (https://katyhuiwenhung.blogspot.com/2020/05/colours-of-nanao-nature-revive-of-tayal.html)

21.  'Golden Moldy Rice Dish' - Remnant of the forgotten ' 大肚王國 The Kingdom of Middag' ? 

HERE.  (https://katyhuiwenhung.blogspot.com/2020/12/golden-moldy-chicken-rice-dish-remnant.html)

PART TWO (12- 17)

12. Hokkien word preserve identity of origin - Mango (foreign)

檨仔(suāinn-á) —芒果/檬果(máng guǒ). (Taiwanese - Mandarin)

檨suāinn (Hokkien) - shē (Pinyin) -sʋaːj (Cambodian) -  xoài (Vietnamese) - ce1 (Cantonese)

檨suāinn is developed from 番蒜 fan-suàn. 番 Fan means foreign which is the point of the title. 蒜 suàn word means 'garlic' but I believe is not the point here, the point is to borrow the phonetic sound of suàn to make this Hokkien word sound like Southeast Asia's where it's borrowed - the fruit's origin.  

檨suāinn for Mango was widely known documented in 1818 but can be sourced as early as 1696. Common belief introduced to Taiwan during Dutch era. The small green-yellow skin type Taiwanese today called 'tu-man-guo' (native mango)

【“芒果”（杧果、檬果）台灣話叫做“suãi⊦ a`（仔）”。台灣的方志都用“檨”字來記錄 suãi⊦（陽去）這個台灣的水果名。“檨”字《康熙字典》没有收錄，但是1818年的《雅俗通》在“閂（uãi）”韻、下去聲、時母（即 suãi⊦）下收有“樣”字，字解是果名，表示在1818年之前閩南地區已經有叫做 suãi⊦ 的水果，閩南人用“樣”字來記錄它。但是清•康熙三十五年（公元1696年）刊行的《台灣府志》已經有“檨”的記載，所以，《雅俗通》的“樣”應該是“檨”的誤字】

13. Taiwanese Hokkien Vegetable word borrowed from Europe - Western Cabbage 高麗菜

高麗菜 ko-lê-tshài (Taiwanese Hokkien) - 包心菜 Bāoxīncài (Mandarin). Word for western cabbage (as opposed to Napa).
Taiwanese Kole, Dutch Kool, Spanish Col, German Kohl.

ko-lê 高麗 is old word for Korea. In this blogpost, a number of linguistics discussed the origin of the word based on the connection between Korea - cabbage (napa kimchi) - German and so forth.

Kerim Friedman alerted me to a post at Prince Roy’s Realm about “why Taiwanese (and apparently only Taiwanese) refer to Western cabbage (as opposed to Napa Vally cabbage, or 白菜 bok choy) as 高麗菜 instead of the more orthodox Mandarin usages 洋白菜, 包心菜, or 捲心菜.” There is apparently a popular theory that the word (which a commenter renders as “Gao Li Cai”) derives from the name of Korea, but much more likely to me seems the idea that it’s a borrowing from a Germanic language (cf. English cole, German Kohl); if you have information or ideas about this, by all means share them. (The comment thread is worth your attention as well; Mark Anthony Jones points out that Cato the Elder claimed “every illness… could be cured by eating loads of boiled cabbage. The reason why Romans survived six centuries without the need for doctors, he said, was because of their habit of eating boiled cabbage three times a day!”)

I rather think Taiwanese 'Kole' is borrowed from Dutch (of course Germanic origin). But I don't much subscribe the debate German or Japanese (in Taiwan's case) encouraged eating cabbage for being healthy...

I rather think it this way - may well to do with the origin of sauerkraut (German) - definitely Great Wall peasant workers and affordable cabbages - and Northeast China (in ancient history the Korean Autonomous Prefecture). Western or Eastern cabbage - it is cabbage. 

14. Lactuca indicas - Chinese shanwoju 山萵苣 . Hakka bitter leaves 山苦蕒. Taiwanese goose leaves 鵝菜/A菜. Amis Samah (could be from Hakka's 山蕒 shanmah, my thought!)

Thanks to a  great article “Someone Else’s Land is Our Garden!”
:Risky Labor in Taipei’s Indigenous Food Boom by Tomonori Sugimoto. I am able to put these terms together. My understanding of this plant, however, is pointing to Hakka 's use of this wild, bitter sword-edge leaves as the origin. From our book:

“Other commonplace vegetables have been given colorful nicknames. Lactuca indica, Indian lettuce or swordleaf lettuce, is usually known as A-cài, the Roman capital A appearing before the Chinese character for vegetable. The A comes from the Taiwanese pronunciation of its original name, e-á-tshài. Other names for it are é-cài or “goose leaves” because it was often used to feed geese, and—giving a clue as to why it was used as animal feed—khú-chhoi or “bitter leaves” in the language of the Hakka minority”

15. For many years, including a prominent Hokkien linguist in London, people can't tell me why Taiwanese call guava 'bala 芭樂'. Or studies like to say it's indigenous word.

Seems, the answer is not indigenous, but Hokkien ：

from 'poat-a' ( mnâ-po̍at-á 林菝仔， 籃菝仔), or maybe we could say from Hakka, since Hakka call guava 'poat-a 拔仔'.

At least, I don't see a better explanation right now.

16. Saliva Fermentation (Aboriginal Alcohol) - 

Institute of Ethnology, Academia Sinica collection.

1956. Wufeng, Hsinchu, Saisiyat 
Scholar Li Yih-yuan (李亦園)

A Dutch missionary report on this traditional method from our book: 

The method perhaps is best known as Japanese Kuchikamizake (噛み酒, mouth-chewed sake), traditionally chewed and spit by young virgin girls. 

Also well-known in South America - In a recent communication with Pei-Lin Yu, 余 琲 琳 (Adjunct Associate Professor, Fulbright Senior Research Fellow, Boise State U. Department of Anthropology), she told me she worked among the Pumé hunter gatherers of Venezuela and made manioc beer with the women by chewing the roots, spitting in to a bucket of water, and covering for about 12 hours. It was very good. She wrote in detail in her monograph 'Hungry Lightning'.

17. First Chocolate Cake. 'German' and 'Manila' instead of 'Russia' during martial law.

Astoria made the first chocolate cake as well as the first 'tiered wedding cake' in Taiwan. Due to political reason, 'USSR' the communist country name was banned from the menu - therefore, in menu, 'Russian' style coffee was sold as 'Manila coffee' and Russian Christmas cake never served but replaced with German Stollen.

PART ONE (1-11)

1. Ancient Chinese preserved in Holo/Hokkien 

 @Shangri-la Yunnan China

鼎 (Ding. Din in Dingtaifung) - prehistoric and ancient Chinese cauldrons, also believed the oldest Chinese cooking vessel -  is retained in Holo/Hokkien meaning ‘wok’ (鍋 Guo in Mandarin)

By Michael Campbell 康邁克

Taiwanese Hokkien is a dialect of Southern Min （bân-lâm-gú) so I’ll refer to the language rather than a specific dialect or accent therein when I answer.

The Min languages split from the main branch of Sinitic at an earlier age than all the other surviving languages, which most linguists date at around the Han Dynasty, a whole half millennium before the Tang Dynasty. The Min languages continued to develop and split internally into the modern-day geographically labeled: northern, eastern, central, southern forms, and three other languages named by location.

Because of this, Southern Min retains traces of an earlier form of Chinese, which can still be seen in a lot of vocabulary.

A lot of common Southern Min vocabulary today now has two pronunciations: a literary and colloquial pronunciation. The literary readings are a latter day addition to the language that came into the language from the north, specifically: a Tang Dynasty stratum. The colloquial pronunciations are the older forms which can readily be acknowledged by the nasal endings which are a vestige of the palatal-ending rime set.

All of the other Sinitic languages split around the time of the Tang Dynasty. The northern dialects of Mandarin, Jin, Xiang didn’t start to take on their own shape until around 1000 CE, around the time of the publishing of Guangyun, and today are now recognised as three separate languages. As a result, the language that became Mandarin underwent a lot of change over a period of time after the Tang Dynasty, which is why Mandarin is not a representative choice. The Gan-Hakka languages were a separate branch that appeared during the Tang Dynasty and later split, however, these two languages are not as well-known or widely spoken, and both of the languages had some rather strange issues with characters swapping tone categories and endings. As it turns out, Cantonese first appeared in the Tang Dynasty and today retains many of the features prevalent during the Tang Dynasty. It is a pretty good fuzzy match to the Tang Dynasty language.

Since Southern Min predates the Tang Dynasty (it’s just a lot older than Cantonese), it’s not always a great choice for reading Tang poetry, unless you’re able to specifically use Tang readings. However, in Taiwan, Southern Min is the preferred choice for reading such poetry due to familiarity and comprehension, and in a majority of the cases the rhyming scheme is still intact.

2. Ancient Chinese preserved in Holo/Hokkien 

Homemade 'Milk Bread' 牛奶吐司

Cream cheese spread on toasted 'milk bread' I like!

香 Xiang in Mandarin is pronounced in Holo in three ways - hiong、hiunn、phang.

hiong is Hong in Hong Kong

hiunn is incense in incense sticks

phang is an adjective describes a smell (fragrant and sweet) - phang origin is an ancient Chinese word 芳 (fang pinyin) retained in Holo meaning nice smell.

Based on my own experience growing up in Taiwan, xiang in cooking denotes flavorful food but in most cases a pleasing sweetness - 

     xiang/phang Yu 香魚, a fish once abundant in northern Taiwan, is translated into English Sweet Fish 

     xiang/phang describes milk in its fresh sweetness. My personal experience in Taiwan tells me this vocabulary is associated with Japanese and my impression is Hokkaido milk is the phenomenon - 香濃醇/ xiang non chun (flavorful/sweet, thick/substantial and pure/clean.)

3. Dutch words borrowed from Hokkien

Beansprouts 豆芽 Dutch taugé - Hokkien tāu-gê - Mandarin dou-ya 

Spring roll 潤餅 (fresh, un-fried) Dutch loempia - Hokkien lunpiã - Mandarin run-bing

Interesting fact, at least in Taiwan, beansprouts is an important ingredient in lunpiã - it gives crunchiness and in Taiwanese food culture - a sign of Spring.

Maybe that's why they are borrowed in each other's company. 

4. Taiwan and Scottish Missionary food vocabulary

Puff Candy 椪糖- regional name of Honeycomb toffee - Taiwan and Scotland

This is not a research piece or anything just something interesting I noticed in the last couple of years - Puff Candy, a traditional Tainan street sweets is pronounced 'pon thn̂g'  'pon' is 凸( Puffed in Hokkien). The interesting story is my Tainan-born grandmother told us her fond memories of Scottish nuns at school bringing girls tea biscuits and British sweets - which made me think there maybe a connection between the origins about this sweet. 
Same with another Tainan street sweets - Maltose tea-biscuit lollipop （Hong Kong version is Maltose crackers)

5. Bad/wrong translations that never get corrected. 

Homemade pickled mei 梅

梅 Mei (East Asian Apricot/Chinese.Japanese Flowering Apricot/Prunus mume) . 

Source E. N. Anderson: mei 梅 translated ‘plum' is one of those missionary translations from the 19th century that never get corrected. Actual plums are 李 Li.

"Good old syun mui, a Cantonese fave, said to be craved by many a pregnant woman. I like 'em too. Pickled mei not only swept Hawaii but also came to Mexico with Cantonese laborers in the 19th century, and are now very popular and thoroughly Mexicanized as "saladitos" ("little salted ones")" (E.N.Anderson facebook comment)

A separate note: Taiwanese 'Almond tea' is actually 'Apricot kernel'). Apricot kernel/Almond translation confusion is more natural, they are both xing 杏 in Chinese. The almond being qualified as badan xing (Persian badam, "almond") since it came to China around the beginning of Tang. 

  

6. 'Q' Origin

There are a number of items in this delicious meal cooked by a Hakka homecook 

that Taiwanese compliment by describing them 'Q'.

1. k’iu 曲 bendy, bouncy   2. cui 脆 crisp, succulent

There are plenty of articles and discussions on 'Q' in the perhaps last two decades. My latest was quoted HERE:

"the Taiwanese k’iu originally meant “something wonky, wavy, curvy, bendy.” For instance, the phrase “QQ” was used to describe grilled squid when it curls up. She likens it to “describing permed hair: when the curls are released they are QQ – bouncy and wavy.”

 “A food that is Q indicates freshness and sometimes firmness,” Hung notes. “Freshness is an essential quality for good, tasty food for the Taiwanese palate. Indeed, imagining meat or noodles that have been sitting for a long while, can they be Q? Doubtful. ‘Chewy’ is used to describe Q a lot, but I would say it must be firm chewy, not tough chewy and not fibrous chewy either. 

But I am most grateful to receive Gene's comments on an important Cantonese origin I was unaware of:

NOTE - Robert Matthews, a former university instructor, alludes to a rare Chinese character, 飲蚯, pronounced kiu in Mandarin. It is a fusion of the characters yin (drink, 飲) and qiu (sip,蚯)

7. Plant-names linguistics 

 Job's tears has several names 

Saisiyat 賽夏族 call it 'tibtibon' and one of Chinese names of this seed 珠薏 Zhu-yi (pearl barley) became the origin of the Han-name Zhu 朱 given to the 'tibtibon' family who traditionally perform paSta'ay.

Taiwanese call it 'duck head' 鴨母珠, apart from in culinary use, traditionally also in Buddhist rosary beads.

'Mountain vegetable' typically stir-fry with 

fried small clove fish (丁香魚 dinxiangyu)

山蘇 Shansu vegetable on menu, 蘇su is actually a transliteration of  Hokkien 蔬su meaning vegetable. Shansu on menu therefore is composed of shan 山 in Mandarin meaning 'mountain' and su 蔬 in Hokkien meaning vegetable.  

8. Sweet - Treat - Supreme

糖 tang /sugar technique is refined in 唐 Tang /dynasty. I have wondered about possible linguistic connection between the two but I accept it remains obscure and untraceable.

餌 er used in food has several meaning but seems by the oldest and more complete definition it means 'cake' 餅，糕 and rice flour 粉 is a key ingredient.

Other definitions are linguistic fun such as - 耳er, the right radical meaning ear, developed from rice cake pure and white like pearl earring. And fish bait 魚餌  - either fish is fed with rice ball or rice cakes so delicious that they bait/seduce. 

Erkuai served in Yunnan China

Erkuai 餌塊, a type of rice cake particular to Yunnan, reminds me of something I researched for the book - sugar and rice cake... 

But it was in Yunnan watching it made and tasting it - that was the first time I made a connection with a much familiar Cantonese steamed rice roll Cheung Fun 腸粉. The process and taste of the rice sheet is pretty similar.

9. Ritual offerings - Sheep 羊 (none-killing)

Hakka style Nine Layer Cake is seen here in ritual offerings arrangement - a none-killing animal sacrifice SHEEP 羊。 The position of each 5 pieces of cake has some significance - for example, the middle right and left pieces are the sheep HORNS. The top piece should point straight and direct to the supreme, the God.

Hakka 9-layer rice cake

Sugar/sweets/confections has an imperial status at one period of time in a number of  cultures. An example familiar to many is Japanese Shaved Ice - in imperial Japan, the dessert was a treat reserved for royalty. 

For Taiwan, reserved for Japanese royalty - chocolate once was, along with  supreme quality rice in particular from Taitung and supreme fine sugar for traditional Japanese confections.

10. Ancient Chinese preserved in Holo/Hokkien 

灶跤/灶脚 Tsàu kha -  kitchen/stove 

灶 in old Chinese writing is 竈. 

灶跤 Tsàu kha literally means Hearth (brick or stone-lined fireplace) legs/under
灶君 Tsàu gun written on red paper in the photo means 'kitchen master/god'

https://www.facebook.com/groups/2466035573522369/?tn-str=*F&fref=gs&dti=2466035573522369&hc_location=group_dialog

Kappōgi 

This photo of a cooking class taken in early 1900s Taiwan under Japanese rules generated informative feedback from Marcie Middlebrooks about the apron the students wear. It's interesting information that I am adding a note here:

"Here is a brief summary of what I learned about kappoogi when writing about something else - a more contemporary topic. I didn't look into the use of "kapoogi" in Japan's colonies but the Taiwan picture that Katy Hui-Wen Hung shared, just reminded me of it. A Japanese scholar Misaki Tomeko has written about the history of Kappogi (I will attach the reference below) ---------------------------- While described as a “traditional” Japanese-style apron, which can be easily worn over a kimono, the kappōgi was, in fact, created in the early twentieth century for Japanese culinary school students (Misaki 2012). Later, as the nation was increasingly mobilized for the war effort, the kappōgi became the uniform of voluntary associations of women who helped send soldiers off to war, assisted the families of soldiers, and made arrangements to receive the returning remains of the deceased, among other activities. After receiving an official mandate from the Japanese military, these voluntary organizations of women, as well as their kappōgi uniforms, spread across Japan and, as Misaki Tomeko (2012) notes, the kappōgi became a public symbol of wartime maternity - a symbol of the body that regenerates soldiers and the nation – and, more widely, a symbol of the “Japanese mother.” In postwar times, however, the Japanese mass media adopted the image of the “western-style” apron as the new symbol of maternal care and “American style” consumption and democracy (Misaki 2012, see also Gordon 2012). The wartime militaristic symbolism of the kappōgi were largely forgotten and the “Japanese-style apron” became simply an old-fashioned and nostalgic symbol of motherhood and was mostly worn by elderly women or “grandmothers” (Obāchan). Thus, to the general public, the kappōgi came to invoke and loosely symbolize an older generation of maternal care.

Misaki, Tomeko (2012) “Sengo Joseino Chakui・Kappogi to Apron: Bundansareru Shintai・Renzokusuru Bosei (Post-war Womens’ Wear - Kappogi to Apron: Fragmented Bodies and the Continuation of Maternity)” in Sachiko Takeda ed. Chakuisuru Shintai to Joseino Syuenka, Shibunkaku, Kyoto: Japan."

11. Ancient Chinese preserved in Holo/Hokkien 

Oriental Beauty tea has five different colors – blue, red, yellow, white and brown

赤 tshiah in Hokkien means color (reddish) brown.  
While in Mandarin 赤 chi generally means color red. Brown is represented by two words 棕 zong meaning palm tree or 褐 he meaning dull, black&yellow color combination.

青 in Hokkien/Holo means Green. In Mandarin means Cyan.