YILAN - A Day with 'Taiwan Old Family' - Part I

The bowl kept to give to Marlena Spieler.
Without her planting seeds, the book would not have happened. 





A fantastic and educational day with  'Taiwan Old Family' group, arranged by Yilan's university professors, historians and  Old-Family members.  

According to these professionals, Yilan developed late, 200 years later than Tainan, to get an idea. However, Yilan developed fast and all of them stressed the importance of community support and power, practically every place we were taken to today thanks little to government and authority, community members have been the driving force of making things happened in Yilan and making locals proud.  The passion of telling and sharing family history and local culture come across in every speaker and on every minute of the day. 

Stop 1
鑑湖堂 /Jianhutang (Clear Lake Hall) . Chen Family Mansion. 
The largest family residential in Yilan.
 No. 36-10, Jinshi Rd, Yilan City, Yilan County, 260

There are several places named 鑑湖 Jian Hu in Fujian - Jian means clear as mirror, hu is lake. This Jianhu Chen inherited the name from a village in Fujian Zhangzhou when in 1767 the family migrated to Taiwan by sea, first settled in Miaoli, and in 1823 settled in Kavalan District - today's Yilan. 

Jinshi Road - Jinshi 進士  "presented scholar" was a title conferred upon graduates of the metropolitan and the palace state examinations. By Ming dynasty, it was the prerequisite for a career in public service.
Drone is a good idea! to introduce Chen family village.






1. Jinshi Bridge 進士橋 





2. Alexendra Palm (Chen Family landmark)



I never bothered to find out what they are called until today! They are 'fake betelnut tree' (in Taiwan?) and proper name King palm, Alexandra palm. A family member told me, they are called Alexander and are  landmark feature to convenience visitors. 

3. 鑑湖堂 /Clear Lake Hall

Chen family construction was largely destroyed by WWII US bombing but for what survived, are carefully preserved and rearranged to tell its history as true to original as possible.








Current owner ('Yilan Jianhu lake cultural foundation' board director) explains and points out family memorial tablets content to a point are the same as those of their Fujian relatives. To the point this branch migrated to Taiwan in 1767. This tradition is shared by many Taiwanese families of Fujian descents.

"Chiang KS' troops stationed here for a period", Chen says, "and they cooked here and tied ropes on beams to hang laundry ..." Chen sighs.  (same story here with Banqiao Lin Family Mansion)




A well-maintained garden and a lovely walk tour



This partial-wall survived the bombing, Mr Chen told us one of his aunties living in the house behind had to have her leg amputated due to unrepairable damage caused by US bombing.



Top Gun Hole and Bottom Dog Hole. 

Gun Hole : tshìng-khang (Hokkien) /孔. To guard in early 1900s eight Chen families from Kavalan headhunters and bandits.
Dog Hole: for Guard Dogs. 




(Informant source: you will find 'cat hole' at李騰芳古Lee Teng-fan's Ancient Residence, Taoyuan) 



4. 落羽松園 (美國水松 Taxodium distichum

Tree history: Around 1947 sapling was brought in from Taiwan Shinto Shrine (today's Grand Hotel) . It is a lovely part of the Chen family garden, so well-loved and maintained. A pleasure to visit.  






5. 登瀛書院 Dengying Academy 

There are several stones 旂勇石- for training candidates of 'Imperial  Martial Art Examination' - a tradition originated in Tang Dynasty, 1000 years ago. 





A side Red House  is 鑑湖堂文化協會 (Jianhutang Cultural Association) of international significance - it was the first location of 'Jane Goodall R&SEducation Center' in 2005. Where Ms Goodall came to Yilan for the grand opening.


6. Aircraft Hangar . Jinshi number 1. 進士1號機堡 
According to my father, the aircraft stored in this hangar is Mitsubishi A6M Zero. 



There are said to be three Hangar in this area. The Chen village has two (Jinshi no 1&2). I only saw one from the distance due to time constrain. Nevertheless fascinated by its presence! (The close-up photo is from online source)

Seeing it from Dengying Academy to get idea of the distance






Stop 2
Lin Family Shrine 林氏家廟  宜蘭市南興街22號 Nanxing Street No. 22
Built in 1835, the earliest, best maintained and managed Family shrine in Yilan. 
Most impressively, there are two Jinshi 進士  "presented scholar" from this family. 




Stop 3
宜蘭文學館 Yilan Literature Museum

Again, in a most comfortable and relaxing setting, particularly welcoming after increasingly sizzling heat at noon. 

Outdoor Intro Session by Yilan Historian



Special mention! Yilan only delicacy! 游家麻糬米糕
I didn't notice in my last visit here, but very nice. 

A room introducing Yilan 'Century-Old shops'! And informant points to me this 90 years old 4th generation OMG stuffed mochi - only found in Yilan! Didn't have time to try. But awaiting next opportunity!







Pointed out to us a must-see dying 80-years-old Camphor at the back! It is beautiful and from an angle, picturesque as you see in postcards of Japanese garden. 

Lunch at 晶英酒店 Silks Place Yilan. Red Lantern
Musicians from Taipei - great performances and heartwarming songs!


Delicious fresh 100% watermelon juice. And Yilan specialty Red Yeast grape wine (very tasty, subtle sweetness with fruity aroma). 

Innovative Chinese cuisine Curry dish served with olive bread to soak up sauce.
First time I eat like that. 

Head-chef called in to serve us their House dish - Roast Duck.

Ringing in your ears instrument


~ END OF PART I ~

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