Two Side of City - Two Era of Democracy (Part II)
Update 2/18/2020
(I)
"I am one of the six peoples who looked in my own eyes and touched with my own hands the entire original set of 228/white terror documents." "We are President Ma Ying-jeou, Prof Hsu Hsueh-chi, Dr Lin (Taiwan top antique, artifacts collector), Mr Hu (Guling street used book store owner), Mr Liao (廖繼斌 228 Memorial Museum Director) and me"
Based on a book launch of 2/18 - "Archives Materials on the 228 Incident" series Volumes 25-27 published and hosted by Academia Historica 國史舘 - I found useful information to update on the above section.
COMPLETE: the 2000 pages 228 original confidential documents left by an intelligent office (of National Defence) have now all been published in five volumes, author Professor Hsu Hsueh-chi (the speaker in the photo).
First volume in June 2015 Last volume in Dec 2017.
Of the National Achieves Administration’s documents relating to the 228 Incident — which total 1.37 million pages — 4,617 documents were classified, but they have all now been declassified in their entirety, Tsai said. “In addition, the related political files containing a total of 990,000 pages from 83 different government divisions were listed as pending transfer [to the administration]. The transfer process is expected to be completed by the end of June,” Tsai said. The Cabinet plans to allocate additional funds to the National Archives Adminis
24 volumes have been published, out-of-print volumes will be available in Library.
Volumes 25-27 documents on Kaohsiung county are launched.
Victims details archive: the youngest in Kaohsiung region 余仁德 21 years old, National Taiwan University Law Student.
Document of 1947 Feb 27: Xie Xuehong 謝雪紅 (Chinese: 謝雪紅; 17 October 1901 – 5 November 1970) was a Taiwanese politician. A women's rights activist, she cofounded the Taiwanese Communist Party . Persecuted by the Kuomintang, she escaped to China, where she became a member of the Taiwan Democratic Self-Government League and the Communist Party of China.
(III)
Public online access available on https://228.drnh.gov.tw/
Large-scale operations conducted by National Archives Administration provide free public online access to millions of 228/white terror related documents. Details of Items required registration provided in the link.
A senior admin demonstrates content and structure of the online database.
Here a document dated 1947 March. The top right corner long number is the catalogue number.
Bridal Street - Aiguo East Road
One of 1.37 million pages under categorization for transitional justice
Taipei Botanical Garden
On way to Ximending MRT heading for lunch at Chiang Kai-shek memorial neighborhood, the first Gay Sauna in Taipei - Hans Men's. Its founder 60 something Yu, the 'Auntie' known to customers, had fulfilled his traditional role as a young man - getting married and raising family. Gay oppression during martial law period gave him no choice until some 20 years ago, came out, divorced and decided to open a Gay sauna which he now calls dearly his 'home'.
We arrived at 'Bai Family Association 白氏宗親會' Hanzhou South Road for lunch. Organised and hosted by the Bai family member who earlier welcomed us at Qingshui master temple.
Its location is exquisite - as you can tell! One of the most famous Bais in Taiwan is General Bai Chongxi who was buried in the grand Muslim cemetery in Liuzhangli.
Another section is reserved for Muslims and within it are buried many of the Republic of China (ROC) soldiers who were Muslim. The most famous in that group is General Bai Chongxi or Pai Chung-hsi (1893--1966). Bai was a brilliant military strategist with a long history of victories; he was one of the few successful generals under Chiang Kai-shek, something which would automatically pose a threat to Chiang's megalomaniac leadership.
(Source Jerome F. Keating Ph.D. http://www.jeromekeating.com/writing-2009-q2/050309.html)
Taiwan Government's effort to promote tourism by initiating programs to lure overseas customers to come to Taiwan for wedding photography may have started more than a decade before 2003 when Bonnie Adrian's book 'Framing the Bride: Globalizing Beauty and Romance in Taiwan's Bridal Industry' on this unique Taiwan phenomenon was published.
Chiang Kai-shek Memorial, as Kao puts it, the world's largest 'empty' concretes (well, one of the two world's largest, if counting Sun Yat-sen memorial), its landscape and location naturally is perfect for boosting wedding tourism. Fortuitously it maybe or not, one can not only love and devote patriotism (aiguo - the name of the road) to Chiang Kai-shek but also to his/her romantic partners. Aiguo East Road has been designated a bridal street since Taipei Mayor Huang Ta-Chou (1990-1994). The 'Always be in love' Wall - Header photo and here is, however, Ma Ying-jeou's innovation during his term of Taipei mayor (1998-2006). Underneath the wall is a tunnel which Kao hints, an under-path of relevance for its location and connection, especially during martial law period.
The suggestion to rename Chiang KS Memorial Plaza from 'Gate of Integrity' to 'Liberty' Square in 2007 was an idea first suggested by Tu Chen-sheng 杜正勝, a Taiwanese politician and historian, among 'Freedom' and others, President Chen Shui-bian chose 'Liberty'. The most influential of the many pro-democracy movement took place at the square was 'Wild Lily Student Movement' of 1990 - three years after martial law lift.
'Love Wall' Separates Two Era of Democracy
As Kao cuts it, Longshan temple at that side of city, is Taiwanese democracy plaza under era of political oppression. Chiang KS temple at this side, began a new era.
From this point on, it may just fittingly a 'Kuomintang history walk' -
Zhongzheng Elementary - most recent and famous alumni is Lin Chin-ling 林志玲, a Taiwanese model and actress. Kao tells us, in the early days before convenient stores and supermarkets populated, two sides of the road were designated 'morning market' lined with mobile vendors providing daily grocery service to residents from this exclusive urban district.
Notice from Ministry of National Defense on locked up, abandon plots can be seen here and there, in many places in Taipei, certainly common in this area.
Passing a number of 'Public Housing' blocks built to accommodate Kuomintang officers or people with Nationalist Party connections. A couple of real modern and nice ones, all facilitated with ground floor shops and stores.
Passing through a number of 'oddity' structure on Roosevelt & Nanhai Road. Some has story to tell, others you just don't know what to think! - Taiwanese style 'odd' and 'quirky' I guess.
Its location is exquisite - as you can tell! One of the most famous Bais in Taiwan is General Bai Chongxi who was buried in the grand Muslim cemetery in Liuzhangli.
Another section is reserved for Muslims and within it are buried many of the Republic of China (ROC) soldiers who were Muslim. The most famous in that group is General Bai Chongxi or Pai Chung-hsi (1893--1966). Bai was a brilliant military strategist with a long history of victories; he was one of the few successful generals under Chiang Kai-shek, something which would automatically pose a threat to Chiang's megalomaniac leadership.
(Source Jerome F. Keating Ph.D. http://www.jeromekeating.com/writing-2009-q2/050309.html)
General Bai , a Muslim, in army clothing
top row first left
top row first left
Centerpiece a Taoist Altar
I had a brief chat with a senior of the Bai family - the man standing on the right in the photo - I asked since 'when' they became separate from the Muslim Bai family that arrived in Taiwan with Chiang KS - he smiled and replied in a relaxed manner " Very easy - we came from the same origin - somewhere Henan province China MANY moons ago .... they went west and became Muslims, we came South Fujian then Taiwan and we honor 田都元帥 a Taoist guarding deity. "We are the Fujian Bai".
Love Industry Chain 愛情產業鏈 Taipei Bridal Street. Aiguo East Road
Ivy Bride 艾薇 across the road is the first Bridal Studio in Taiwan
Taiwan Government's effort to promote tourism by initiating programs to lure overseas customers to come to Taiwan for wedding photography may have started more than a decade before 2003 when Bonnie Adrian's book 'Framing the Bride: Globalizing Beauty and Romance in Taiwan's Bridal Industry' on this unique Taiwan phenomenon was published.
Chiang Kai-shek Memorial, as Kao puts it, the world's largest 'empty' concretes (well, one of the two world's largest, if counting Sun Yat-sen memorial), its landscape and location naturally is perfect for boosting wedding tourism. Fortuitously it maybe or not, one can not only love and devote patriotism (aiguo - the name of the road) to Chiang Kai-shek but also to his/her romantic partners. Aiguo East Road has been designated a bridal street since Taipei Mayor Huang Ta-Chou (1990-1994). The 'Always be in love' Wall - Header photo and here is, however, Ma Ying-jeou's innovation during his term of Taipei mayor (1998-2006). Underneath the wall is a tunnel which Kao hints, an under-path of relevance for its location and connection, especially during martial law period.
The suggestion to rename Chiang KS Memorial Plaza from 'Gate of Integrity' to 'Liberty' Square in 2007 was an idea first suggested by Tu Chen-sheng 杜正勝, a Taiwanese politician and historian, among 'Freedom' and others, President Chen Shui-bian chose 'Liberty'. The most influential of the many pro-democracy movement took place at the square was 'Wild Lily Student Movement' of 1990 - three years after martial law lift.
'Love Wall' Separates Two Era of Democracy
As Kao cuts it, Longshan temple at that side of city, is Taiwanese democracy plaza under era of political oppression. Chiang KS temple at this side, began a new era.
From this point on, it may just fittingly a 'Kuomintang history walk' -
Notice from Ministry of National Defense on locked up, abandon plots can be seen here and there, in many places in Taipei, certainly common in this area.
Passing through a number of 'oddity' structure on Roosevelt & Nanhai Road. Some has story to tell, others you just don't know what to think! - Taiwanese style 'odd' and 'quirky' I guess.
A 'devil's tree' story goes back to 1895 when the tree was born - Mr Gao who lived here told in one interview. He and family moved to this location in 1946 and built a home by the tree. As the family grew and expansion of living space became necessary, they decided to build around what they called 'lucky tree' keeping it in its place and allowing it to grow. There is no longer anyone living in the house , but a noodle shop was open for the number of times I passed by in recent years.
The middle is 'Indigenous Languages Research & Development Center'. Its dwarf twin, I don't know.
The weirdest is THIS! Tzu Chi Foundation, Roosevelt Rd Sec 1. Awkwardly looking and awkwardly situated at crossroads.
@Mandarin Daily News 國語日報, Fuzhou Street. The only existing Bopomofo Typesetting set in the world. Kao tells us this set belonged to British Museum in London for some time until Ma Ying-jeou (during his term of mayor or presidency) bought it back for Taiwan and since settled at this location.
Postal Hospital Nanchang Rd and Women&Children Hospital Fuzhou Str alleyways are known for stalls serving traditional street food. Freddy Lim , a Taiwanese politician and musician, publicly spoke out his adoration of 四神湯 Four Spirits (Herbs) Soup behind the hospitals.
Recommend: "Nan Cai Yuan" Built in 1899. First resident Kodama Gentaro, 4th Governor-General of Taiwan (1898-1906). While you are in the neighborhood, worth a look and walk around. Even in this condition after August 2016 fire.
The Japanese era wooden dormitories located at the intersection of Guling Street and Fuzhou Street (“Nan Cai Yuan”) was approved by the Taipei City Council as a historical site of Taipei City on July 5. The collection of dorms, which sit right across from the Ministry of Finance, once housed important officials during the Japanese pre-war era. Some of the famous residents have included the principals of the Taipei Imperial University (today’s National Taiwan University [NTU]) and the presidents of the Bank of Taiwan, which is one of the oldest banks on the island. Currently, with the exception of one building among the group, the wooden dormitories are relatively well-preserved. The entire vicinity is walled off and covers an area of approximately 1,300 pings. The building was vacated by the last inhabitants in 2004. According to city planning documents during the Japanese era, this area was designated to house top officials in the educational, financial, and political sectors. One street away from the Bank of Taiwan dormitories is the old dormitories of NTU. In addition to the old residence of the famous philosophy professor, Thome H. Fang, this was also the residence of Taipei Imperial University’s principals. According to the Department of Cultural Affairs, due to the constant interactions between the University’s principal and the Japanese Viceroy’s Office during the colonial period, Nan Cai Yuan was chosen as the site of the official residence due to the proximity. Even today, NTU still continues the practice of having its acting principal reside in the school-owned dormitory during their tenure. The original city plans were drafted by the Japanese ruler to help the fledging city centers on the north and south of downtown. The dorms for the government officials were constructed along Zhongshan North Road (such as Shuanglian), while the residence for officials of the Viceroy’s Office were built from Nanchang Road southward. Former Viceroy Kodama Gentaro’s residence once stood at the location of Nanchang Park. Today, the buildings provide one of the best testimonies to the urban development history of southern Taipei during this period. The area is now one of several tree-lined tranquil places that can be found around the city.
Fuzhou Street No. 20&22. Historically Taihoku Imperial (today's National Taiwan University) Principal Dormitory, and a tradition lasts to today.
General Sun Li-Jen Residence - Former Army Command Headquarters Taipei - Nanchang Road
1907 - Japanese Governor-Officials dormitories in succession
1950s - Army Command Headquarters and Dormitories for Military Defence officials. Gen. Sun Li-Jen the first Taiwan GA resident
1955 - Sun charged with conspiracy and under virtual house arrest in Taichung. House renamed 'Army Command Club'
1993 - Renamed 'Army Command Social Club' and provided catering service
2004 - Listed Historical Building
2010 - Renovation began
2016 - Privatized and Re-opened
2017 - Renamed Gen Sun Li-Jen Residence
More on this legendary and forgotten hero is in HERE .
"Finally, former President Ma Ying-jeou (馬英九) expressed his regret at Sun's treatment during a 2011 visit to the memorial residence, with the late general's sister, son and daughter in attendance. As has often been the case, Sun's image has now been rehabilitated on both sides of the Taiwan Strait. In September, China's Xinhua News Agency gave glowing press to an exhibition held at Sun's alma mater, VMI, entitled “Ever Victorious General of World War II.”
The Residence restaurant is the only Japanese colonial building in Taipei that caters Banquet and Wedding. Kao tells us, President Tsai books the whole building to host annual banquet for Military Forces thanking their services.
Guling Street and Rescuing 2000 Pages Confidential Documents
The Red-Roof house at the bottom end is the Presidential Residence - The tradition of using this location Chongqing S Rd Sec 2 as Presidential Residence started with Lee Teng-hui. Each president give his/her home a 'house name' for security reason. For example - Lee Teng-hui called it 大安 Total serenity. Chen Shui-bian "玉山" Son of the tallest mountain/of Taiwan, Tsai Ing-wen 'Yonghe' 永和 Eternal peace.
Guling street is where Taipei's used book industry concentrated before 1980s city redevelopment. Kao says - now there are only two or three left. To remember and honor it serving a significant piece of history and city general public over decades, President Tsai government organize events every year, such as Books and Creativity Bazaar.
"I am one of the six peoples who looked in my own eyes and touched with my own hands the entire original set of 228/white terror documents."
"We are President Ma Ying-jeou, Prof Hsu Hsueh-chi, Dr Lin (Taiwan top antique, artifacts collector), Mr Hu (Guling street used book store owner), Mr Liao (廖繼斌 228 Memorial Museum Director) and me"
Kao says he received a phone call to come to Mr Hu's place and 'check-out' some thousands pages documents relating to 228 and white terror - Some stamped with red ink 頂 （林頂立。 Director Bureau of Investigation and Statistics), some with 蔣 (Chiang Kai-shek).
Investigation on the source of these documents suggested that an intelligent officer brought and kept at home after leaving employment until his family sold to a second-hand sector after his death. Through a couple of changing hands, Mr Hu became the owner of these highly confidential and sensitive documents. Both China and Japan were interested in owning them, Kao says, China especially wanted to weave these information into rewriting Taiwan history! None of us wanted THAT to happen. The development of finding them a home came down to one person Hsu Hsueh-Chi 許雪姬 and her employer The Institute of Taiwan History, Academia Sinica. Hu asked for 10 million NT$ (Kao says about the fee China had offered), Hsu eventually bought on behalf of the Institute for 3 millions. Hsu says 3/5 are documents on 228, 2/5 white terror.
Only some of these documents have been made public over the last few years, Hsu who specializes in the 228 incident of 1947, ensuing white terror period and nominated to serve on Transitional Justice Commission in 2018 reportedly expressing her concerns and decision to hold back - these are highly sensitive issues and without good foundation of knowledge and appropriate appreciation of Taiwan history of that period, information can be twisted and misunderstood - creating disparity, hatred and reopening wounds for victims family.
The Guling Streeet Avant-garde Theater
Constructed in 1906 to serve as a Japanese military police station. 1995 transformed into a venue for small theater performances. The original baroque-style building, thick walls and pillar makes it a perfect small scale theater venue and in 2001 renamed 'The Guling Street Avant-garde Theater'. Closed in 2017 for renovation but progress has been reported stagnant.
For Taiwanese, it is probably better known for an inspiration of the film in 1991"A Brighter Summer Day" with its Chinese title dedicated to the real-life murder case of a teenager girl by a classmate, committed in summer 1961 牯嶺街少年殺人事件.
On leaving the street, Kao mentioned 'highly sought-after' books today are those published during 1945-1953. "Books of this periods is scarce .... due to economic recovery after WWII...". I asked if he could give me an example, what sort of book as an example - "THK Staff learning Mandarin books!" (Taiwan Hōsō Kyōkai - Japanese broadcasting center Taiwan. Situated in today's 228 Peace Memorial Park)
Forgotten Soldiers from the 1949 Retreat - Temporary Homes Sadly Becomes Permanent.
Kao says "I am taking you to see old soldiers homes you do not expect to see in Taipei!" And true, I did have recollection of shabby dwellings in 'China Telecom' area, but that was well over 30 years ago and I would have thought residents were relocated and settled more than a decade ago.
Kao again reminds us - these were built temporary homes for Chiang KS soldiers. Taiwan retreat was temporary, Chiang would soon strike back and restore China - they hoped. However, in these cases , 70 years gone by, left forgotten and the shabby dwellings may have been modernized and repaired, yet far from a condition city dwellers call 'home',
The building standing tall is luxurious apartment homes - the top floor resident is celebrity singer and actor Jay Chou. Shabby homes we were about to see are just behind, a complete contrast.
Passing through secluded roads seeing including President's Special Forces Vehicles parking lot (!) and again abandoned Japanese style houses once owned by high ranking officials.
And here we are! Kao gives us some statistic too - The first figures is 3000 soldier family were put in temporary homes at first stage, then 500. In THIS particular section we walked through behind botanical garden, there were 300 family and now 50. While the majority were relocated and settled in purposely built modern public homes, here are the forgotten ones living in revamped temporary homes for the last few decades.
Poverty Is the Mother of Invention - Discovery of Mahjong Noises Behind Botanical Garden
Interesting tales continued! Kao tells us how he came to discover these forgotten residents -
"I was in Botanical Garden one day right in this building and I heard shuffling mahjong and people talking behind a wall. My curiosity was intrigued which led to the discovery of these forgotten soldiers homes. And then I noticed holes in walls! Turns out these holes opened to the shady, cool side of the garden functions perfectly natural (and free!) air-conditioning for long summer heat! Very clever!"
Thanks Kao for a fantastic, informative day. Here is a youtube about the Monopoly game he designed and produced. A smart innovative and partly hand-drawn educational game showcasing Wanhua history and development.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KC4E5obSv0s
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