This post aims to be informative - Taiwan in general but in particular for readers who are interested in culinary history.

I was in UK when Taiwan Travelogue wins the International Booker Prize 2026 in London - which arouse my interests in comparing the Chinese original and English version.

Initially for a particular reason - The role of food has been amplified in the marketing and promotion for English readers. As I bought, read 'between' two versions plus reviews (in both languages) here and there - I decided I have things to say.

My viewpoints may be seen critical but I hope some readers find them informative and useful.

Pre WWII

pu:tu 本島人 means Taiwanese (none-indigenous)
pu:tu 本島人/漢人 (includes Hakka)
pu't/puh 本島 means Taiwan

Read HERE and HERE

I cannot honestly say I am not confused (on a number of occasions) with this translation style - even though I fully understand the context (and situations) and have read *THESE* (Supplements in the end so as not to disturb the main body of the post) explanations.

Page 193 (King)

I can only think it's 'creative' translations and a luxury of freedom of translation (as King puts it on p291 Translator's Note)

It goes like this - Mainland novels is translated from Japanese Kanji 内地 means Japanese novels. Han-language is a literal translation from Japanese Kanji 漢字 (I have personally never saw 漢字 translated into English 'Han-characters' which is all through the book, therefore I assumed this 漢 thing (literally means Chinese) is King's deliberate and liberal Japanising style). Shina is Japanese pronunciation of 支那 means China (footnote provided). Islander translator means Taiwanese translator. Islander translated (literal) from Japanese Kanji 本島 means Taiwanese.

SO - 'Mainland novels', 'Japanese Empire' both means Japanese but translated from and in different 'languages. I mean maybe 'Japanese novels' and 'Japanese Empire' when positioned in the SAME paragraph would have made readers (*who have no idea about these languages) less confused and disoriented? Maybe.

My suggestion - a footnote explaining how these two terms 'Mainlander' and 'Islander' are used may be good. BECAUSE - Nuances of Pre WWII 内地 and 本島 phrase are best explained in front for some clarity.

Taiwan Railway (Railway significance BEFORE Food)

I would point out the significance of Taiwan Trunk Line (縱貫線) has been downplayed in the English version. Or it has not come through. Part of the colonial government's masterplan, the railway completed in 1908, connected the north (Keelung) to the south (Kaohsiung) was what made 'food tours' described in the book possible.

Yang (the author) consulted my cousin 洪致文 Chih-Wen Hung (Taiwan Railway and Airplane expert) during the write-up. Suggested read - From Merchant to Gentry, the Hong's in the forming of Taipei Walled City (by Willie Chen)

Suggested read - Sugar (and Rice) Railway

Sugar (Taiwan), Oyster (Britain) Industrial Railway Tidbits

The Twilight Years of Taiwan’s Sugar Railways: The World's Most Extraordinary Industrial Railway by Dafydd Fell and Wang Hsiang
Taiwan in Time: The sugar express
Taiwan in Time: Chasing the last sugar trains by Han Cheung Taipei Times
The Biandang Days from Japanese Days to the Present by Crook and Hung (Railway Bento plays an important role in Taiwan railway history)

仙洞窟 (Immortal Cave)

READ Jilong 基隆 and Xiandong 仙洞

p251-253 (Yang) p195-197 (King)

I will make a special mention of this cave as there is personal attach to it. Description of the cave appears on John Dodd's travel diary. Today generally known as 'Fairy Cave' in English, although 'Immortal Cave' is correct.

Check-Out Inaccuracy and Questionable Translations

Inaccurate Chapter Title/Dish Name

X. Tau-Mī （兜麵）/~~Potato Noodle Stew~~

This translation error has lasted two years between 2024 US award ad 2026 UK prize and no one noticed. I hope it will get checked out and my suggestion taken place - After all, it looks bad a major misleading error occurs on the first couple of pages of an award-winning book. 'Potato Noodle Stew' is not a Taiwanese dish. And it does not represent Tau-Mī （兜麵）.

The translation mistake here is Mī 麵 -

Mī 麵 is flour 麵粉，not noodle 麵條.

The dish is starchy paste made with sweet potato 芡番薯粉 NOT pasta.

兜 (Tau) is 繞 - to go around, to stir potato flour with preferred ingredients to a starchy paste consistency.

For this, I discussed with Professor Miranda Brown (culinary historian). She then sent me a YouTube Tau-Mī （兜麵）(Fujian dish in origin) to confirm we are talking about the same dish.

"What do you call this 'lump' in English?" I asked.

"A gelatinous patty. Probably super Q " Miranda responded.

An equivalent example of Mī 麵 = flour 麵粉 is 麵茶 flour-tea, which by King's translation is 麵茶 noodle-tea.

Inadequate Chapter Title

XII. Mitsumame/Fruit and Jelly Ice

Mitsu-mame is named after mame (まめ or 豆) which is why the name 蜜豆冰。King's translation contains no mame 豆 which practically makes the dessert. 蜜豆 is sweetened bean， crucially red bean (large or small. 花豆 or 紅豆 - these are Japanese influence)。

Now, the point -

Mitsumame on Japanese menu can be 'Fruit and Jelly' Ice. But not on Taiwan's - the point. The book focus on Taiwanese food, not Japanese. Traditional Taiwanese Mitsumame is enjoyed with a variety of mame 豆 of personal choice.

Academic Reviews -

These flaws lead me to point to a Taipei-Times review written by a UK based Taiwanese academic researcher.

"Food, in particular, becomes a key site where desire and power intersect. Meals are described with extraordinary sensuality and precision." (Taiwan’s quiet literary masterstoke (typo) by Ming-yeh T. Rawnsley )

Point - I have provided in the above two examples of lacking 'extraordinary precision'.

Taiwanese Literature Works Beyond Taiwan

"She noted that Taiwanese works often touch on themes such as colonial history, postwar politics, the White Terror period, democratization and linguistic diversity, requiring translators to provide additional historical and cultural context." (Taiwanese literature translators discuss language, culture in Poland Focus Taiwan News)

SO TRUE - That's what Taiwanese works are seen. Linguistic diversity today usually refers to indigenous language revitalizations which are reconstructed hypothesis-based languages. I have thoughts and questions about it, in particular ongoing phenomenal, encouraged hypothetical etymologies and claims, the use of outdated, underanalyzed data and implementing a mosaic of loanwords.

In the meantime, I have understood how Polynesian language revitalization strategy works from Easter Island trip. Related posts (only a few of the several I have done) HERE HERE HERE HERE

I DO understand what needs to be done for language revitalization to be successful and the importance of revitalization - I DO. Nevertheless highly questionable revitalization claims such as 'The Qalang Smangus' (God's Tribe) is borrowed from 'Territoires dès Sauvages' (Territory of Savages) and 'Slave' is Puyuma name historically for Amis' bothers me. HERE HERE HERE Derogatory Place Names

Point - the same loanword pronounced in 15 different 'sounds' (or revitalised into 15 different indigenous words) does not make this result 'linguistic diversity'. That is simply 'loanword diversity'.

Kudos to Lin King who is a brilliant translator. She manages transferring emotions very well and is masterful in being succulent.

However, despite appreciating and admiring her skill and intention, I do find flipping languages between reading somewhat a bother and at times left me disoriented. For this I consulted Jonathan Clements who responded accordingly -

I asked Jonathan about translation 3,4,5 and 11. There has been more than one occasion of exchanges, to sum up -

11. 女中 should be Maid and not Servant. As 女中 are specifically female.

3,4,5 Initially may seem unnecessarily Japanised but really depends on the nuance of words in context.

I asked "but when and where do you stop?" for example - why Japanised 3-5 and not the rest? Jonathan replied "that would be a question I would ask myself repeatedly if I were the translator."

There is also a thoughtful 'Reading guide' online article published by UK -based professionals a couple of months before its winning in London. Reading guide: Taiwan Travelogue

Translating the Highlighted Colonial Relationship. Translating the 'Japanising' Context.

The Chinese original is fictional from cover to cover. The preface and the blurb are both fictional. Back cover blubs are done by two Japanese and two Taiwanese fictional female characters.

Highlighting colonial and 曖昧 female relationship in the Chinese version, in my opinion, is Japanising and fictionalizing from Cover to Cover. I compare it to watching a movie - from the beginning to end is fictional, what's put in front of you is a plot performed by actors.

The English version, in my opinion, is done by the use of Japanese pronunciation. Evan Dawley (Professor of History) commented "... seeing the place names from Aoyama's gaze I think helps readers of English to understand it. Readers of Chinese might not need those reminders."

Culinary and History Tidbits (Cover to Cover)

Front Cover (Chinese) is 苦楝花 (Melia azedarach) Bangas is a Taiwan native tree exist in several indigenous languages. Extensively cultivated during Japanese rules, especially in Southern Taiwan, as the flower color, shape is reminiscent to Japanese of their national flower cherry blossoms) Read HERE . (This cherry reminiscence is mentioned on p269 King Chinaberry blossoms - Khoo-ling-a)

Back Cover Blurb (UK edition) ".... a stinging critique of Japanese colonialism...." (Fuchsia Dunlop)

That's an odd comment. Clearly Ms Dunlop was chosen as the leading UK endorser for her food expertise. The focus of food is evident in the US/UK promotion. Not her fault for making this odd comment, but that does indicate something. For which I fully agree Michael Reilly's (Former British Representative to Taiwan) comment "...it shows how much ignorance of Taiwan there is in the UK..."

I.Kue-Tsi/Roasted Seeds

II. Bi-Thai-Bak/Silver Needle *Vermicelli (*Strictly speaking is not vermicelli (thin noodle) as it is as 'thick' as rat's tail - hence the Cantonese name 'Rat's Tail Noodle' 老鼠粄)

The book started with several place I visited in the last one year. Each with lovely memories and exciting discoveries. Wansei (灣生, わんせい) Okinawa Ishigaki Moji (門司港レトロ）Kyushu Takasago (高砂)

Wansei An Okinawan from Taiwan

Moji BANANA auction birthplace - From 'The Story of Taiwan Tea' to 'Empire of the Sun' (Steven Spielberg)

Ishigaki Okinawa immigrants Immigrant, Biodiversity, Cultural Heritage - Check Out Taiwan from The Yaeyama Islands of Okinawa Prefecture

Takasago (高砂) is one of the names Japanese called Taiwan. (Similar with Horai 蓬萊 for Taiwan). Takasago (高砂) Phrase Auspicious Meaning I Did Not Know!

Formosa Oolong Tea phenomenon has begun thanks to Suez Canal and John Dodd a marketing genius who shipped 130000 kg Formosa oolong tea directly to New York.

The Story of Taiwan Tea Hong-Ming Cheng and Katy Hui-Wen Hung)

1869 is a significant year for Formosa oolong tea

Castella cake is Nanban 南蛮 (Nánmán) food Nanban 南蛮 definition in Japan
Aiyu and mesona jellies and shaved ice A Trifecta of Traditional Taiwanese Sweets

愛玉子(Ficus awkeotsang MAKINO) How did Aiyu become Indigenous? (Millet goddess and Squirrels hunting)

南無果レンブ（renbu）Namuka (King p4. another deliberately Japanising word?) - I don't think is archaic Japanese. It's from Hokkien lián-bū. Origin is Indonesian Jambu.

青綠 is not 'tea-green' (King p4) - Taiwanese 青 tshinn is green 綠. Just like Taiwanese 赤 tshiah red is brown.

香菇 is specifically 'Shiitake mushroom'. Not 'mushroom' by King. Fungus Among Us – The History of Mushrooms in Taiwan (Crook and Hung)

Bi-Thai-Bak/Mí-Chhî-Muk (米苔目/米篩目) and Cendol (mont let saung)

"In China, the Hakka name for silver needle noodles is memorable but unappetizing: lo-see-fun, “rat’s tail noodles.” Taiwanese Hakka call them mí thôi muk, sometimes rendered mee tai mak, akin to the name in Singapore (mee tai bak). This name describes the method by which these noodles are made: rice paste is pushed through a sieve, then dropped in hot water for cooking." (A Culinary History of Taipei， Crook and Hung，Chapter 3 page 64)

Cendol (mont let saung) is the same process but dropped in cold water.

The 'sieve' what does it looks like - HERE at General Lee's house in Luzhou.

III. Muâ-Inn-Thng /Jute Soup

JUTE Economy, Specialty Soup, and Jute Bags for Rice and Sugar (Kew London Inspired I) (This blogpost has been sent to Kew Gardens London Herbarium director - who responded "Fascinating!")

Taichung Wufeng Lins - where I was first introduced to this Taichung specialty soup ( I later knew Indigenous Amis also used young jute for food. 'muwa' borrowed from Hokkien 'mua-inn')

"A well established Jute economy in Taichung was showcased at Japan-British Exhibition of 1910 and along with several other Japan-Formosa items were sent to Kew to be archived."

V. Bah-So/Braised Minced Pork (Including Rice in the title maybe better as braised minced pork itself does not make a dish name)

VI. Tang-kue-Te/Winter Melon Tea

King :p113 footnote 14 "long-grained indica rice native to Taiwan" is not true. It was brought over to Taiwan from Hokkien before Japanese. And Japanese named it Zairai 在來.

Zairai 在來 means 'preexisting'. Zairai 在來 origin is believed a Japanese railway term refers to Zairaisen ざいらいせん在来線 - the existing railway line (JR) before Shinkansen.

Japanese use zairai to refer to not only rice, but preexisting fruit cultivar such as zairai pineapple.

Zairai在来線 JR Line photos taken in Kyoto and Kyushu.

'Horai' as it is - is used in Japan (photo @Osaka) but in Taiwan usually under a variation of spelling, such as Borai 寳來 (a plain-indigenous hot spring village in Kaoshiung)

THE ROLE OF RICE

Page 73-76 A Culinary History of Taipei (Crook and Hung) covers the description and use of rice to such as rice cake 粿, nine-layered cake mentioned in the book.

Nakamura 中村 strain, to be inter-bred with 236 Zailai 在來 strains. With the help of an angel passing by 路過的天使 who inserted a segment of aboriginal rice DNA.HERE.

Zailai was deemed unacceptable to the Japanese who generally preferred their own sticky short-grained 稉米.HERE.

What's worth a mention is takuan (pickled daikon in yellow coloring) which is served for just about every 'old-time' rice dish such as turkey rice, braised pork rice, Tainan shrimp rice.

Winter Melon 冬瓜 - perhaps not commonly known for none-Taiwanese. Traditional pineapple cakes are made with a large percentage of winter melon (to make it voluminous and sweet, also cost-effective). Today - some are made with 100% pineapple which results in sourer and more fiber taste - although some prefer. More pineapple, more expensive.

VII. Ka-li/Curry

Curry is one of the iconic 'Nanban' food, introduced to Japan by the British Navy during the Meiji era in the late 19th century. karē カレー dish was a restaurant menu category during Japanese rules, frog curry was not uncommon.

Japanese Curry Rice (Home recipe)

Sean A. Hsu MAZENDO 麻膳堂

(Chapter 3 p49 Crook and Hung)

IX. Tshai-Bue-Thn/Leftover Soup

End of Banquet Soup (Crook and Hung)

Same dish 菜尾湯 but Seven and I decided to translate the 'spirit' and the 'warmth' of the soup -

"To thank everyone who helped out in this way, after the guests had left, an “end of banquet soup” (cài wěi tāng) was cooked up—typically with leftovers, daikon, and mustard greens—and shared out. This custom, which many remember as one of the most charming aspects of traditional bando, expressed gratitude, albeit with humble materials. “If you’re happy, then the food is delicious” is how a character in the movie sums up the sentiment that makes for a successful bando."

(movie refers to Zone Pro Site: The Moveable Feast 2013)

Zone Pro Site 總舖師

A “zone pro site” is the chief of a banqueting team; this Holo-language term, which would normally be rendered chóng pho͘ su, means “a professional master of culinary skills.” He (the authors have not come across a female zone pro site) is responsible for selecting dishes after consulting with whoever is paying for the feast, controlling the workflow from the time the team arrives on-site, and supervising the actual cooking. (Crook and Hung p86 Chapter 4)

tsong-phoo-sai (King p198) ".....Master A-Phun (阿盆), was one such master chef. She ... "

Steven and I have never come across a female zone pro site. Traditionally is predominantly male. A female tsong-phoo-sai in 1930s Taiwan Ms A-phun is fictional along with her fictional blurb on the back cover.

page 185 Da-te maki 伊達卷玉子

Da-te 伊達 is super interesting.

"Then I noticed the small words "Produce of Fukushima prefecture" 福島縣, googled, Ah! Da-te (City) is where Da-te 伊達 clan originated! "Fukushima Pride "Persimmons" to "San Juan Bautista" (One of the First Nanban 南蛮 Ship)

p.220 (King) toast 土司 does not make much sense to none 'Mainlanders' and 'Islanders' - therefore white bread/sliced white bread is more appropriate.

p. 219 (King) nine-layer cake 九層粿 is a good case for culinary history.

"Non-glutinous indica is the main ingredient in daikon cake and Hakka nine-layer cake. ... [The non-sticky rice flour] provides a softer, more delicate texture that practically melts on the tongue.”. Two different batters are steamed, layer by layer, until there are nine in total. In addition to the original two-color brown/white sugar version, some vendors now make and sell decidedly nontraditional multicolored nine-layer cakes. Seven-layer cakes are also made, but only the nine-layer version has a ritual role, appearing during the Double Ninth Festival (the ninth day of the ninth lunar month). (Crook and Hung p.75)

XII. Mistumame/Fruit and Jelly Ice

Banana extract 香蕉精 - quintessential Taiwanese.

The artificial 'banana' flavor contributes to the sweet fragrance which I remember very well. Apart from use in shaved ice or ice treat in general, also traditionally used in confectionery such as nine-layer cake and most commonly in 鳳片糕 (marzipan type confectionery).

xiii (King) " There is also the interesting matter... final chapter "Mistumame" ...reprint published in 1970,..." "There was no chapter twelve in the original manuscript that she first read...."

Remember these are ALL fictional - the original, first and final print, reader and writer are all fictional. Nevertheless it does bring back to my point earlier in the beginning that - If the dish is 'added' for 1970 , then Mistumane described (for 1970) was a Taiwanese shaved ice filled with 'mame' - the essential ingredient absent from King's translation.

First ice-making plant in Taiwan may have been the one set up in 1896 in Dadaocheng in Taipei by tea merchant Lee Chun-sheng (李春生) and his British business partners. In the 1910s, the Taiwan Daily News (the era’s leading newspaper) reported on the neighborhood’s thriving ice-dessert scene.

Dadaocheng and People.

thập cẩm Sino-Vietnamese word from 什錦 @ Hoi An Vietnam 2025 quite suitably matches Taiwanese Mitsu-mame' 蜜豆冰 in terms of ingredients